Alpha-Arbutin vs Beta-Arbutin
Arbutin is obtained by reacting glucose with hydroquinone extracted from bilberry leaves, cranberry leaves, pear leaves, bear berries, and blueberries, which are native to mountainous regions.
The molecular structure of arbutin is that of hydroquinone attached to glucose. Arbutin inhibits the activity of tyrosinase, which is involved in the process of melanin synthesis in the skin, suppresses excessive melanin accumulation, reduces pigmentation, helps to even out skin tone, and prevents spots and freckles. Arbutin is divided into α-type and β-type depending on how glucose and hydroquinone are linked.
β-Arbutin is produced by chemical synthesis.
β-Arbutin has a lower structural stability than α-arbutin and is easily broken by UV rays and heat. Due to this characteristic, it is recommended to use skincare products with β-arbutin only at night, and when used during the day, it is recommended to be used together with sunscreen.
It also has the disadvantage of being easily degraded by intracellular enzymes due to low intracellular stability compared to α-arbutin.
It is α-arbutin that compensates for this shortcoming.
α-Arbutin can only be produced through enzymatic synthesis (microbial fermentation). Unlike β-arbutin, it is resistant to light and heat, so it can be used day and night and works stably inside the cell, making it more effective and non-toxic.
By compensating for the shortcomings of β-arbutin, it is much more structurally stable and not easily broken. α-Arbutin is about 10 times more potent than β-arbutin in inhibiting melanogenesis.
α-Arbutin inhibits tyrosinase to even out skin tone and minimizes aging spots, acne scars, redness after blemishes, and more. It also has antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties.
We are always striving to make better products for our customers with better ingredients and recipes, and as part of that, we have replaced β-arbutin in our Glow Deep Serum with α-arbutin.